Backpacking through Kerala

Desi Fun(da) ...

I just got back from a 5 day backpacking trip through God's own country - Kerala with a couple of my friends. It was a wonderful trip with just nothing negative to say about the entire trip through the wonderful southwestern Indian state of Kerala.

Day1: Bus departs at 5.30
We packed off on an evening bus towards Kanyakumari with the intention of spending a few hours there and visiting the Vivekananda Rock to attain some self realisation and stuff. All packed and ready we boarded a regular KPN bus which suprisingly provided a larger legroom than Kingfisher airlines or any Volvo bus. We had our dinner at some place in TamilNadu which would be better left untold.

Day2: Plans change. On to Kovallam
A good sleep later we wake up to be told that the bus is running real late and instead of reaching Kanyakumari at 8am it would be there by 11-12noon. So we weigh the options and decide on skipping Kanyakumari in favor of having a day to spare to visit another location within Kerala. So we get down at Nagarcole and  get a connecting bus to Trivandrum. The bus reaches us to Trivandrum from where we move on to the East Fort bus stand to catch our bus to Kovallam beach. It is around 15kms from Trivandrum and the mini bus takes us 30mins to get there. As soon as we step out with out bags some locals rush to us to ask if we needed some rooms and heck we did. We followed them to the other side of the beach and after checking the alternatives decide on picking up a small cottage a straw throw away (yeah stone's throw is too cliche) from the beach. We tried to bargain but the guy wouldn't budge from Rs500/night and well that was a bargain in itself. The sun was blazing by now and the three of us drop down after a cold shower.

The first sight of the beach is just breathtaking. The ocean appears from within the dense coconut trees surrounding the beach and then the clear light greenish water with its striking white waves just hits your eyes with cold refreshment. The beach is well maintained and has a decent sprinkling of lifeguards to keep watch. The afternoon usually is the time for the foreigners to turn up for their suntan in the blistering heat:)

In a few minutes we get hungry and decide on checking out the hang outs along the beach front. After walking the stretch we decide on sitting down at a place called Beatles (well more so because of a hot blonde who was there and left as soon as I entered). The beer we ordered turned out to be just chilled perfection for use weary travellers and we were back to normalcy after a couple of gulps. Later we decided on just chilling on the beach played some football and hit the sack for a few hours again. We then decided on giving our hosts a try and checked out one dish on their dinner menu. This made us return out to Beatles were we stuffed ourselves with fish and some amazing lassi:)

While taking an early morning walk I reached the other side of the beach and saw the local fishermen pulling in a huge net caste out really far off from the beach. I ran back got my camera and woke the guys and came back for some pics. It seems that this is how they did the fishing and the catch used to be quite good and sufficient. However with the larger boats and fishing vessels coming in the catch by this traditional method has been deteriorating and there is not much that these poor fishermen can do to compete with the big pockets.

Day3: Let's get to the backwaters of Kumarkom
So at around 10 we packed up again and headed towards our next destination, the backwaters of Kerala. The much talked about and anticipated part of our trip was nearing. We went back to Trivandrum and headed towards the bus station. On the way we had our breakfast at this amazing architectural marvel of a place called the Indian Coffee House, right next to the bus stand. We decided on making the trip to Kollam and then Kottayam to try the government conducted backwater ride from Kollam to Allepey. We took the bus to Kollam but on reaching there were informed that the ride starts at 10.30 in the morning and takes nearly 8 hours to complete. The KSTDC guy there was informative enough to tell us that there was a train leaving for Kottayam in the next few minutes and we could catch the same instead of a tiring and longer bus ride. We made it in time and had a wonderful 4 hour train ride to Kottayam. We reached there at around 5 in the evening and enquired at Kumarkom from the local restaurant where we had our tea. He was also informative enough to dig up a number of his friend who rents out places in Kottayam. We spoke to him and he quoted Rs1000/night so we decided to take our chances by making the trip there. We reached Kumarkom by bus, a 45min ride, and there too were greeted by locals who were trying to scout out people wanting rooms for the night. We saw the KTDC rooms, Rs600/night, and those rented out by another local guy, Rs500/night.

At this time we got into a conversation with a local motorboat owner cum guide, Thambi, who took to us and at the end of a rather short conversation offered us his a room in his house for the evening and that too at no cost. We decided on Rs300/night but paid him Rs400 the next day. He also promised to make us the best fish we had ever tasted so on we went to the local fisher monger from whom we got 4 fresh fish of 3 varieties for just Rs110 and vegetables for avvial for Rs50. Off we went to his house.

A typical southern house covered in red tiles he offered us any room in the house that we wanted and ordered:) his wife to cook all that stuff for us. The four of us then had some freshly plucked mangoes and went off for a walk soon realising that we were entering one of the poshest resorts in Kumarkom ie Coconut Lagoon. Though we did not enter into their private premises we got a pretty good view of the area their room and cottages, massage and yoga areas, their compost and vermiculture cultivation tubs, their rainwater harvesting and waste recycling etc etc.

Then sitting in the dark surrounded by the backwaters and India's largest lake on one side and paddy fields on the other we enjoyed some fireworks in the distance and a tingling conversation with a local security guard. We returned an hour later to find a hot meal ready to be relished. The fish was simply superb especially the lake fish Polliere I think it is called. And the final part was the avvial which was even better. Now all we needed was a good bath and what better way to do that then take a dip in the backwaters itself. Thambi after being threatened by his father decided against letting us in but got us knee deep and poured buckets of water on us. What an amazing way to end the day.

Day4: The backwaters beckon
We were rearing to go and get into a traditional boat. So we had spoken to Thambi's friend and cohort and booked his row boat for the morning. He came in sharply at 8 while we were eating MrsThambi's delicious rice steam cakes. We said our goodbyes and got into the boat.

In the traditional black boat we too picked up the oars and started pitching in. We got into the bird sanctuary area and saw a few birds. I don't remember any one other than the snake bird and Siberian storks that were around and well of course I saw a real life kingfisher bird as well. We rowed around for the next two hours and the blistering heat was taking its toll. So we got out at the closest bund and walked to the bus stop and boarded the bus back to Kottayam. Now we were on our way to Munnar.

The bus ride to Munnar was really hectic. Getting one of the hardest seats amongst all the buses during the trip the behinds were cursing us. We finally made it to Munnar at around 9pm only to find that all the rooms in a 20kms radius were booked. So off we went to Adimali which was 30kms down (and where we wanted to get off in the first place). Anyways we got a room out there Rs400/night and dozed off after a light dinner of veg rice and curry.

Day5: Back to Munnar and taking the room with a million dollar view
We got up late and went off to the bus stand. Had some tea and got into the bus to Munnar. On the way up we saw this amazing hotel perched over the valley with a view to die for and kissing the constantly flowing mist all around. It seemed like it was fairyland.

Anyways we got there at around 12 and and then started room hunting. Again the local auto rickshaw guy helped by showing us some of the cheaper (within our budget) accommodation. But I guess we couldn't get the hotel we just saw out of our heads. So off we went to Copper Castle. The place was as good as it looked. A friendly manager even struck a good deal for us within the fixed price room Rs2970/night and we were finally satisfied.

We took the same rickshaw guy, Subramani, to show us the local spots. And just FYI do not order fish at a hill station:) Anyways it seems there are three different tours possible in Munaar, because of 3 different routes to that place. Since half of the day was done we picked the shortest one and got the cameras out. We made it to the picture point, echo point, a couple of dams, the Indo-Swiss project and stopped at all the scenic spots in between for pictures. We took 10 times the pics we did at the other two destinations we had been to. Munnar is essentially a tea growing location and you will see tons of tea plants all over the hills making it look like a green carpet with black lines.

Subramani left us at the market and luckily for him we paid him Rs600 instead of Rs500 that we had agreed on because of someone's ageing memory:) We then headed to the spice shops and picked up some fresh tea, spices and oils before calling it a day, sans dinner, and retreating to our shahi accommodation.

Day6: Leaving God's own country
We had planned an early start to the day but the weather turned out to keep us in bed a bit longer. After getting up at around 8 we went out to explore the nearby area. The mist had cleared off from in front of our hotel and the valley was visible in all its wonderful green glory. The view was awesome and camera went on clicking. The breakfast served by the hotel was fresh and healthy and kept us going for the rest of the day.

And of course while there I made sure I got an Ayurvedic full body massage. It was really good with a seasoned professional and traditional masseur who got the oils into all my pores and made sure that my body loosened up along the massage. An amazing experience and a must do. It took nearly 45 minutes and cost around Rs600 + a healthy tip. Thanks to Paul Martin at Copper Castle for that massage.

We checked out of the hotel at exactly 12noon ie the checkout time and then moved towards the bus stand. On learning that the next bus for Udmalpet was 2hrs away we decided to hunt for some toddy ie kalll (in malayalam). The local shop turned out to be closed so we headed to a nearby village Annachal which was around 15kms away. We reached there only to get some 4-5hr old toddy so we just stuck to a glass of it and moved back to the bus stand.

The trip to Udmalpet was wonderful. Barely any cars taking this route because the roads are narrow and well you are moving to TamilNadu. The best part is that the route takes you through the Chinnar Conservation Park (Kerala) followed by the Indira Gandhi National Park (TamilNadu). A good 4hr ride later we took a bus to Coimbatore from Udmalpet which took us 2hrs. Luckily we managed to get a regular KSRTC bus from Coimbatore to Bangalore which started at nearly 12midnight and reached Bangalore at 8.30am in the morning the next day.

I was back at work today and well its dull to be back here in the city. I enjoyed Kerala, the people, the places, the climate and the food. I was really disappointed because I did not get to see or meet any traditional Malayale girls who seem just so perfect:) Maybe they were informed of my whereabouts and planned their days accordingly:(

Suggestions to Travellers
+ Plan Well
+ Take 10 days and see the entire state if possible
+ Rent a car if possible
+ If travelling by state buses be ready to hear your behinds crying on some occasion
+ Travel lite
+ Have a ayurvedic massage
+ Visit the back waters
+ Talk in English when asking for directions
+ Eat the fish at the Beatles in Kovallam
+ Try some toddy

Suggestions to Kerala Government
+ Wake up
+ Get CNG/LNG buses to save God's own country
+ Start working on the roads connecting these amazing locations


All in All
We touched all bases in Kerala - the beach, the backwaters and a beautiful hill station, all in 5 days and we made it back here to Bangalore, all that in a measly budget of less than Rs5000 per person. There is nothing to complain about in Kerala. Kerala is full of different types of churches all over the place. Built lavishly and in great love towards Christ. The number of coconut trees out here are mind boggling and make a pretty picture any time of the year. Everything seems to in place. Picture perfect scenery, really great food, marvelous locales and exceptionally friendly people. God's own country is a title befitting not only the land but also the people of Kerala.







link to yahoo photos for the pics