Backpacking to Amritsar [Day7]

5:15am New Delhi: reach the station and don't find myself wanting to halt here. Found that a train leaves for Amritsar on 30mins.

2:30pm Amritsar: the train has halted near the station. Police advise me to jump off and catch a rickshaw from the previous junction. Done. Reach near the golden temple and take up a room. The cab to Wagah border leaves in 15. Quick shower and am out. Evening saved.

5:15pm Wagah border: reaching here an hour before time is insufficient. The place is already packed. Stuffed like sardines again :|. Hey but look BSF providing special seats to VIPs and caucasians. So much for feeling special of who you are in your own country.
The show starts and the crowd erupts. Some 3-4k on the Indian side versus barely a few hundred on the other. Awesome atmosphere. Vande Mataram, Bharat Mata Ki Jai and Hindustan Zindabad. Rocking in the freakishly hot sun, worth it.

So looks like I have something to get done back in Mumbai. So my trip ends here. Will visit Jalianwala Baugh and the Golden Temple tomorrow and then head home. I wanted to go to Jammu and maybe even up to Srinagar, but that's not happening.

Hyderabad-Nagpur-Khajurao-Varanasi-(Delhi)-Amritsar-(Mumbai).
That's nearly 3000kms by road and rail to Amritsar. 5 states, 8 blog posts and too many temples visited. Phew!

So the days were longer, sleep incomplete and all the destinations absolutely unknown. What an awesome few days. Met some interesting people and have reenergized with these wonderful memories. While the body aches, it is still craving for more. Now that's the sign of leaves/vacations well spent.

Will post the pics when i get home.
Till the next time then... Bon voyage mes nouveaux amies. Au revoir.

Day6|Day5|Day4|Day3|Day2

Backpacking to... [Day 6]

Early morning Varanasi: An early morning wakeup call by the neighborhood monkeys show me towards a gorgeous dawn. The Ganges flowing steadily and swiftly right in front of my window while the temple bells start to fill the air up, seemingly in a rhythm of sorts. I head out to find some hot tea and breakfast. God how the fuck do I get out? School kids ahead.. Bingo! Make it out in 20 mins new record. I'd bet these kids could solve the Rubik cube in record num. of moves, blindfolded too. The cute part though is watching all the kiddos getting packed into various forms of transport heading to school. Reminds me of a pack of roses. Ssw some on their way back as well. Roses no more :(

Anyways knowing the stats on the actual pollution in the  river there was no way I could get myself to take a dip. But got blessed with some of it nonetheless.
Last minute shopping done.

Booked my tickets to the capital night.
Next stop, New Delhi.

Day5|
Day4|Day3|Day2

Shoutout Cleartrip.com: Hrush Bhatt had heard and responded to my initial experience with his company. If he is still actively scanning the web for feedback, and I hope he is, he owes the team that designed the mobile version of cleartrip.com a beer party. Awesome work man. Your team has done a fantastic job keeping in mind the form factor being worked for. A perfect example of how design when done right is just so pleasant for your end customer. Awesome. P.S. I love beer too ;)

Backpacking to... [Day 5]

Tatkal screws me over: 3AC middle berth need I say more? To make things worse I am next to the door and have no way to save my feet being knocked on by each and every person all through the night. After exactly 2 hours of sleep I spent the rest of the journey at the exit enjoying the gorgeous landscape. Fields lush green with crop thanks to a good monsoon. These Morning views just blow your mind.

Varanasi 12:00pm: delayed by 1.5hrs. Last minute change of plans and decide to go to a different guest house coz it seemed closer to the center of town. Am left at a junction from where I am told i have to walk. And now i know why. Welcome to Varanasi the city of lanes, bylanes and alleyways. Some deviously disguised as something similar to a house entrance. Barely enough space for two people to walk shoulder to shoulder but in true desi style bikes zoom around and cows stroll by while you hang on. 1Hr gone by and am still searching. While I did ask for directions all along I only now realize that I should've asked for them at every corner. Locals consider a couple of left or right turns a part of a "straight" road. 1.5Hrs later I reach the guesthouse. Exhausted but starving. Remember I was in a train and not having dinner is the best way to avoid the scary airy loo. 30Mins break and I plunge myself back into the labyrinth will all the determination to get some food. Maybe I'll have better luck following the cows out of here.

45 Mibs and am onto a road. Halved my time, yaay;! Tried out the bhojan at keshariya. Was nice but a local vendor's lassi rocked. Kullar lassi with thick dollop of malaai and topped with kesar, pista and badam shavings. Just what the doc ordered.

Bad news: the river had risen pretty high. The evening poojas which are said to be a sight will happen on the temple balcony instead of the steps, those are completely under water. So no morning boat ride on the Ganga either. Sucks.

Day4|Day3|Day2

Backpacking to... [Day 4]

Exploring Khajuraho: Heard atleast 5 different languages at the breakfast table already. Note to self: update resume with this super specialty skill set.

So the temples out here are spread out in the southern, eastern and western zones. Other than the western zone the rest are in ruins. Pillaged not by thousands of years of existence but by a few recent decades of greed. Not as much by the mugals and british but by many who worship the deities these magnificent structures house. Luckily the western temples are saved by the ASI and now recognized as a world heritage site. The beauty of these temples is just jaw dropping. Will post the pictures up pretty soon and then you will get it. Note to self#2: somehow mask the fact that I've concentrated too many bytes on the apsaras.

Explored Mediterrano, the recommended Italian joint and was thoroughly dialsappointed. What did not let me down though was the sound and light show at the western temples late last evening. I would've loved it even better if they weren't blasting off the audio on the speakers. ASI should go modern with wireless headphones.

This morning I spent a good 5 hours exploring these western temples. Knowing a bit of the storyline and using the audio guide was a good call. Totally vote for it. Rs100 for English and 60 for Hindi. Or pay for Hindi and play with the device a bit to find out how to have it play the English track :) Hey saving for beer ain't a crime!

Tatkal rocks. Got the second last seat on the train to Varanasi for tonight. Ganga we meet at last.

Next stop Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh.


Day3
Day2

Backpacking to... [Day 3]

The train ride was awesome. I was back in a long distance train after a really long time. And not much has changed. The toilets were still as "airy" as before and the berths couldn't accommodate the taller me. The food  though has seriously deteriorated. And boy does the thing shake. I never realized it shook sideways as much as it did.

Reached Jhansi at 2.50, spot on time and luckily found a friendly rickshaw driver who guided me to the bus stop across town. The first bus to Khajuraho is supposedly at 5am but a bus was heading to Chatrapur, some 60kms from Khajuraho, right as I got there so I jumped in. Packed to the brim there was just one butt cheek's worth of space left and I parked mine. Did I mention smoking was allowed on this bus? And boy did all the uncles light them up. So early morning beedies and second hand smoke on the ride. Survived somehow and reached Chatrapur at 6am. Had some tea and got on the 7am bus to Khajuraho.

8:15am Khajuraho. The place is a small village town dotted with a lot of hotels. Headed to Jain temples road to pick a room. The place was blistering hot even this early in the morning so I just walked into the Lonely Planet's pick and took the first room offered.
First order of business... Cold shower.

On my way here I found out that there are trains to Varanasi but on alternate nights, of course not tonite. So I am at Khajuraho for the next couple of days. The sursundaris have my undivided attention.

Backpacking to... [Day 2]

Arrived at Nagpur pretty early in the morning and after recharging the batteries I headed out to explore the city. But it looks like Sunday is taken pretty seriously out here. The place was pretty dull other than a few Anna Hazare supporters.

So back to the planning board. After a little bit of digging I decide to pursue a route into MP. One of the options that stands out is Khajurao. An ancient site of temple ruins, more famously known for the erotic sculptures than the deitys themselves.

Buses seem to be out of the question. Train station. All trains full. Get a waiting list ticket and hope for the best. Till then hop around and gorge on some lunch.  One hour before the departure time I find out that the ticket is confirmed to Jhansi.

Next stop Khajurao, M.P.

Backpacking to...

With a couple of weeks of vacations overdue and my brains certifiably fried after reviews I found myself wondering how best to spend my precious days of freedom. So I decided to go back to what I have been missing.... Backpacking...wagabond style!!

Here are the rules of the game.
1. No advance bookings for travel or lodging
Exceptions the tickets to the first destination.
2. Travel as much as possible by road/train.
Flights are the last option or on the final leg.
3. Leave as much travel as possible for the night. Yeah wayside sceneries are lost but well.
4. Be true to myself and keep things basic/frugal/cheap without getting stingy :)
5. There is no planned destination.
6. SURVIVE

Lets see how and where this goes. If nothing else i can always delete this post and run back home ;)

First stop Nagpur.

Travel me wild


It's not the journey, but the destination.

Who says you can't enjoy both. Just returned from a short trip as a part of the Skoda Yeti Right of Way Expedition. I along with another duo were selected to join the leg at Dessert National Park, right off of Jaisalmer. The organizing teams had done an awesome job in every aspect to ensure that everything was in place... Other than an early morning ride along the Samjhauta express route there were no hiccups sighted. Anything to improve neighborly relations I say. That out of the way we were brought back to our senses and the national park with some awesome eagle sightings around us. Having renowned wildlife photographer Nayan Khanolkar along with us definitely helped us learn more about all the wings we saw. Our various visits were coupled with some off-roading with the Yeti and the little package showed off its beast of an engine each time. Sly little package.

However, the presence of the two superstars I was teamed up with was what everything was about. What a difference some good company with receptive minds can make! Two cheerful "adults" who seemed to have just got the "get out of jail free - for 3 days only" card. And boy did the convicts play havoc. The conversations started mildly with a flurry of jokes, vegetarian only of course :), and covered topics like spirituality, sexuality, frozen exit points in the body from the early morning chills and a variety of camel talk. A well rounded conversation if I've ever had one? (I just hope none of it got documented in any format)

Not many pics of the trip with me. Will upload the few I have soon anyways. The NatGeo team took some snippets of me with yellow aviator shades on and a few with a camel. My best guess is that the videographer wanted to fill up some slots in "Laughter Video Challenge" or "India's Funniest Home Videos" sometime soon. You could extort money out of me to get those back man! lol!

So now after Jet airways took my boarding pass and handed me my "go straight to jail" card am back in civilization. When I sit here trying to put this down to words I remember another quote that brilliantly sums up this trip

A journey is best measured in friends rather than in miles

This one cranked up the odometer to all 9's!


CommonWealth Games Delhi 2010... are over

Ok so its over.... and hell yeah we snuck into the second place on the medal tally.. yipee..

So what sucked... Listed very much in order of suckiness
1)
Suresh Kalmadi and his entourage were by far a the suckiest part of the games mess.
FOB* collapsing without this SOB under it proves that evil still rules this world.
Whats worse he didn't send me a VIP pass either.. dude.. come on we bro's ain't we?

And a very very very distant set of second, third, fourth and fifth
2)
A.R. Rahman. KARO MARO PEEO JEYO. Did I hear him say this was gonna be bigger than waka waka? Dude.. just because you got a sympathy FOB** vote at the Grammy doesn't mean you have proven yourself... And dude this was your chance and did you screw it up.. I cant even remember the tune of the thing you charged 5cr for man... let alone the words. And yeah.. plzzz plzzz don't pick up the mic ever again. Spoilt brat.
3)
Central Bank of India. These dipshits don't realize that today if a ticket is issued online you get to board a freakin aircraft. Why the fuck then did we need to come to the fucking branch? Was there a swayamvar planned that needed my presence there?
4)
The dedicated CWG lanes... Come on I thought that the idea of hosting the games was to have the visitors enjoy our culture as well. And being stuck in never ending traffic snarls is very much a part of that. You cant just enjoy our chicken tikka, butter chicken and not sweat your ass off sitting in an auto rickshaw having to pay 10$ to get exactly 100mts from where you are [ without being informed about it by the friendly auto rickshaw walla of course]. Come on... catch the metro if you don't like the traffic.. no special treatment.
5)
Sheila Dikshit... why were you sleeping all these years woman. You should've kicked ass way earlier.
6) Hate to say it but
the indian men's hockey team. Come on how can you loose 8-0 in the finals. Didn't the coach insult my surds brothers enough prior to the game to rev them up?

So what rocked?
1) The entire "better than Beijing" stadium booing Suresh Kalmadi at the opening ceremony
2) Sheila Dikshit for an entirety of 3 days prior to the opening
3) Jat boyz... and no plz don't email me.. am not like that.. not yet anyways
4) Saina Nehwal... rock on girl!
5) Indian track athletes... kick ass attitude
6) India-Pak hockey match.. esp considering we won!!
7) And what rocked the most... ??? The Indian national anthem playing for all of 38 times... it ain't the Olympics but hell it sounded just as great.

* first FOB is for the foot over bridge
** second FOB is for the Fresh Off Board tag

Night Skies at Pangong Tso

Of all the things being planned the trip to Ladakh has been on the list for a very very long time. Ironically though, the decision to go was taken just 3 days prior to departure and nearly everything done last minute. But then isn't being spontaneous (read. lazy) half the fun?

People have written and talked about Leh and the amazing landscapes that it has to offer and they were all spot on. The gorgeous views on the Leh-Manali route, the shocking sand dunes in the Numbra valley, the abrupt and non seasonal snowfall at Kardungla, the precariously perched gompas at every visible horizon... everything was spot on.

But then they missed one very special thing. The heavenly views of the night skies from Pangong Lake. That I guess was the one hidden secret that was discovered during the trip there and what a well kept secret it is. For most people head out to Pangong Tso as a day trip with very few willing to bear the sub-zero (debatable :)) temperatures of the high altitude lake post sunset, which amazingly is around 7-8pm. Or maybe its simply because most people can't stomach a night in minimal accomodations available here. Sissies.

Luckily the low temperatures are never a deterrent for this thick skinned Mangy. Standing out near the lake, when you raise your head to the sky, you are greeted with the most amazing array of stars that you could ever imagine. Think of the Nehru planetarium on steroids. A 180*360 degree hemispherical view of the skies with nothing blocking your sight in any direction. The stars so bright that we could neither call out the north star nor Orion's belt, which is ever so prominent from the subcontinent. The number of stars and their intensity was something that could not be believed. While the fact that most of them twinkled like gorgeous diamonds was a spectacle in itself, you could also find trails of white clouds beyond those stars which could be star clouds or nebulae. Who knows what they were, who cares.. it was stunning!
And if that didnt satisfy your appetite for wonder - the patient few caught more than one strikingly clear shooting stars. Oh yeah, wishes were definitely made#!

Call it godly, heavenly, spiritual or just plain romantic... this is one sight that will be etched in the sanctum sanatorum of my soul and retinae for a long long time.

In fact I was told that I must apologize to everyone for not having a suitable camera on me to capture the sight. I am deeply sorry for that. And extremely ecstatic that I saw it and you didn't :P For regardless of how well one may be able to express themselves through words there are some things that just need to be experienced!

What a night!


For rest of the experience in pictures.. see these
Just got Leh'ed

Sports are finally back on Indian Televisions

Da beautiful game is back with the fifa World Cup 2010... Finally some sports on the desi telly.